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Laser Engraving Tips And Tricks

Laser Engraving Tips And Tricks

Laser Engraving has changed dramatically over the past decade or so. After I began working in this industry, when you wanted to have a laser at your factory or shop you have to have THREE THINGS: Highly Trained Personnel, Endurance and really DEEP pockets.

Up to now 10-years or so, computing energy, strong-state lasers and deployment of systems has introduced the prices down significantly, the required skill set to own and operate a system may be very low and system maintenance has change into critically simplified.

So, let's get to the meat of this Article.

Laser MARKING: TIPS and TRICKS

1. First and Foremost, have the right Wavelength!

The Wavelength of the laser is critical to part marking.

ORGANICS:

For example, For example your main business is customized firearms. Most individuals start with a simple CO2 laser having a Wavelength of 10,600nM. These are low-price, low-barrier systems meant for engraving and marking the ORGANICS. Wood, Paper, Glass and Stone to name a few. A CO2 is a GREAT alternative for engraving and marking the Wood Butt Stocks and Polymer Grips, but isn't going to do much in the way of engraving the metal portions of the firearm.

METALS:

With the intention to successfully mark and engrave with any depth in metals, we need to change wavelength. Right here, the appropriate wavelength for MOST widespread metals is about 1uM. Why do I say about? Simply put, there's a number of variations for the 1uM laser, commonly clumped together because the ubiquitous "YAG". In truth, the YAG is the Nd:YAG with a central emission of 1,064nM. But then there's the Nd:YVO4, the Nd:YLF and the mainstream FIBER laser with it's proprietary glass-doped acquire medium. Every of these lasers are 1uM lasers, however have slightly completely different wavelengths from 1,064nM, 1,057nM, 1,070nM and such. Additionally, each has totally different pulse traits and that can play a serious role in the proper selection.

2: Why does Lens Choice matter?

You'd be shocked at what number of instances I've to elucidate optics to people. It's a primary and required step in choosing the proper tool for the job and there's a very core element everyone should understand. SPOT SIZE!

SPOT SIZE vs FOCAL LENGTH:

The Spot dimension of a laser is critical. Let me just repeat that. The Spot dimension of a laser is critical! Simply put, you want a certain quantity of energy to do work. Keep in mind as kids when a few of us would take a magnifying glass outside and burn things? Bear in mind how as we discovered focus, the wood would just start to smolder, and as the spot became smaller and smaller near the focus the wood would really start to char and burn? And as we went too close, the spot would grow once more and the burning stopped? That is a GREAT demonstration of fluence. Fluence is a term which equates within the easiest understanding of Energy for a given Area.

In our example above, the Sun's energy was fixed (unless a cloud passed by). We adjusted the Energy/Unit of Area by focusing the lens to it's tightest focus. For those who think a few pizza. In case you get a Massive versus a Small pie, the diameter could double. To illustrate a Massive is 20" diameter and a Small is 10". However you do not get twice as much, you truly get quite a bit more because if the diameter doubles, the AREA goes up by a factor of four!! This is identical for the laser. If we HALF the spot-size we INCREASE the energy density not by twice, but by a factor of 4!!

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